Angelus - ANGELUS U21 TOURBILLON CARBON GOLD
Angelus - ANGELUS U21 TOURBILLON CARBON GOLD

ANGELUS U21 TOURBILLON CARBON GOLD

Angelus | 52'700 € Tax inc.

Available
Notice of laurent

See other pictures

ANGELUS PUSHES THE LIMITS EVEN FURTHER

The goal with the U21 Tourbillon is to present the essence of the movement by removing any superfluous material.

 

What seems to look deceptively simple to achieve requires great artistic vision and engineering prowess. The more material that is removed, the more the structure of the movement has to be carefully calculated to ensure rigidity and sturdiness for a maximum precision.

 

 

THE A-250 CALIBER

 

The tourbillon’s steel cage is hand chamfered and polished with flat surfaces either mirror-polished or satin-finished.

 

The variable inertia balance wheel is regulated by four gold weights around its perimeter. In the quest for high performance, the rim of the balance wheel has been milled to maximize aerodynamics and reduce air resistance.

 

The highly engineered movement further features beam-type titanium bridges which are skeletonized to reduce weight and offer a better view of the watch's inner workings.

 

The titanium mainspring barrel bridge is supported by slim pillars set directly into the carbon fiber main plate.

 

All wheels throughout the entire gear train have a specially developed six-spoke design, again in the quest for maximum rigidity for minimum mass.

 

All of the rubies, which actually act as low-friction bearings, are fitted into solid gold chatons that are embedded in the carbon fiber main plate. Gold chatons not only look good and attest to the movement's haute horlogerie bona fides, they are also non-magnetic and corrosion resistant like the carbon fiber itself.

 

 

 

THE U21 TOURBILLON IN DETAILS

 

The carbon fiber used in the U21 Tourbillon is very specific, offering the essential characteristics necessary for use in a haute horlogerie timepiece, with tolerances in the micron range. They are not decorative elements, but 100% functional.

 

The heart of the U21 Tourbillon is the flying tourbillon. The tourbillon is “flying", which means that it does not require an upper supporting bridge. This helps to maximize the three-dimensionality of the movement and allows maximum appreciation of the technical and aesthetical refinements throughout the movement.

Technical specifications

REFERENCE : 0TCAD.B01A.C004R

 

- LIMITED EDITION OF 18 PIECES -  

 

 

 

FUNCTIONS

- Central Hours & Minutes

- One-minute flying tourbillon

 

 

MOVEMENT

- Haute horlogerie manufacture movement with NPT carbon-fiber main plate and gold bridges

- Jewels : 18, set in solid gold chatons

- Diameter : 32.60 mm

- Thickness: 5.78 mm

- Power reserve : 90 h

- Frequency : 21,600 vph / 3 Hz

 

 

TOURBILLON CAGE

- Steel

- Hand-chamfered and hand-polished

 

 

MOVEMENT FINISHING

- Haute horlogerie, all steel component with hand-chamfered and hand-polished edges, flat surfaces mirror-polished or satin-fcinished

- Satin finished with chamfered and polished solid gold 18-karat red gold bridges.

 

 

CASE

- Material : NPT carbon-fiber and 18-karat red gold

- Diameter : 42.0 mm

- Height : 10.30 mm including sapphire crystals

- Crystals : Sapphire crystal dome with anti-reflective coating on inside surface

- Water resistance : 30 m / 100’/ 3 atm

 

 

DIAL

- Material : NPT carbon-fiber dial is actually the movement's main plate

- Hour and minute markings : printed spokes on outer chapter ring

- Hour and minute hands : rhodium-treated with white SuperLumiNova blue emission

 

 

STRAP & BUCKLE

- Strap : Stealth black alligator leather with titanium insert

- Buckle : 18-karat red gold pin buckle engraved with Angelus logo

 

 
 

Who's who

The announcement was reserved for an attentive audience of connoisseurs – in short, a very select community of seasoned watch geeks. That’s precisely Chronopassion’s clientele, which is why Laurent Picciotto spotted it amongst the hundreds of others made at Baselworld. It could be summed up in a couple of words which everyone had practically given up hope of ever hearing: “Angelus is back”.

 

Founded in 1891, Angelus devised legendary calibers for fine Swiss watchmaking, and was one of the most innovative manufactures of the first half of the twentieth century, before its name was swept aside by the advent of quartz in the mid-1970s. Nevertheless, for purists it still enshrines the essence of the very best in mechanical calibers. Many of them have powered high-ranking watches, including certain Panerai Luminors, much sought-after nowadays.

 

With a heritage such as this, seeking to bring Angelus back to life is an audacious enterprise. And in addition to daring, it calls for resources, creativity and talent capable of more than simply repeating the past. All of these qualities are now to be found at La Joux-Perret, the illustrious movement manufacturer based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, supported by the Citizen Group – and responsible for some outstanding Arnold & Son watches. It’s this dynamic, coherent ensemble that’s resolved to bring Angelus back from the ashes.

 

“So on paper, the rebirth of Angelus had all the ingredients for success. I just needed to see the watch itself,” explains Laurent Picciotto. “The watch” rather than the model – because in Basel in March 2015, there was just one in existence. And it was reserved on the spot for Rue Saint-Honoré.

“It immediately caught my attention,” confirms Picciotto. “The offset, protruding tourbillon juts out ever so slightly from the main housing, with the time almost in the background – a wonderful device. The  U10 Tourbillon Lumière instantly becomes a talking point.”

 

And so Chronopassion has become the first store to offer one of the very rare U10s – there are only 25 of them in the world. It was love at first sight, in terms of both its design and its caliber. “It’s an absolutely pure expression of form,” is how Laurent Picciotto puts it. “It’s been designed to be an exact fit for its bespoke, unique, and very seventies case. The dead second feature is not only a rare complication, but also a nod to the decade that saw the end of Angelus’ first life. It’s a great inside joke that’s not lost on connoisseurs.”

 

Clearly, Angelus is not just another start-up. The firm offers all the guarantees of experienced watchmaking professionals – enjoying complete creative freedom – while the ‘Angelus’ name delivers legitimacy and a seal of approval.

Could one talk in terms of a historic rebirth? Only time will tell. But if so, the U10 will be its cornerstone. And once again, as it has so often been for others, Chronopassion will be helping it on its way, right from the outset. 

 

 

 

 

Journalist : Olivier Müller

 
Read more