Christophe Claret - The X-TREM-1 , Christophe Claret
Luc Virginius / Chronopassion
Christophe Claret - The X-TREM-1 , Christophe Claret

The X-TREM-1 , Christophe Claret

Christophe Claret
Show price
340'000 €

Available Contact us
Notice of laurent

See other pictures Luc Virginius / Chronopassion

Ultimate watchmaking by Christophe Claret

X-TREM-1, the first of a new generation of timepieces, represents a major technical and aesthetic accomplishment: a flying tourbillon inclined at a 30° angle, mounted on a three-dimensional curvex titanium mainplate, equipped with a retrograde hours and minutes display system that is radically different from existing watchmaking conventions. Two tiny hollowed steel spheres, isolated within sapphire tubes on the left and right sides of the caseband magically move with no mechanical connection thanks to magnetic fields.
 
X for eXperimental
T for Time
R for Research
E for Engineering
M for Mechanism
 
X-TREM. The concept certainly deserves its name. It expresses Christophe Claret’s determination to continue pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking, integrating certain fields of research never previously applied in this domain.
The Manufacture from Le Locle presents the first creation in a new X-TREM collection that will be exceptional in all ways. X-TREM-1 features a tourbillon timepiece and uses magnetic
fields to indicate the hours and minutes.
The challenge is bold and some might say a little crazy: How could someone possibly think about introducing a magnetic field – the arch enemy of horological mechanisms – into the heart of a watch? That is what purists are liable to say. And yet Christophe Claret has done just that by creating a system where two small steel spheres – hollowed to make them lighter – encased within two sapphire tubes placed to the right and left of the caseband, are controlled by precision magnetic fields generated by two miniature magnets moved by cables. The cables are incredibly flexible, made from hundreds of Dyneema nanofibres all contained within an ultra-high-strength polyethylene gel, capable of withstanding tensile forces of up to a kilo. The entire thread is thinner than a human hair (4 hundredths of a mm in diameter). The resistance of the thread has been tested in the Manufacture Claret on an accelerated-wear simulator corresponding to six years of operation.The spheres have no mechanical connection with the movement, with each one floating inside the two tubes and creating outstanding horological magic.
“We developed this technology with the School of Business and Engineering Vaud (HEIG-VD) in Yverdon-les-Bains, and a team headed by Professor Besson,” explains Christophe Claret.
“What’s more, the magnetic fields have been focused so that they have no effect whatsoever on the mechanisms – apart from the task assigned to them, which is to help display the time in a quite incredible and original way.”
The initial project, which was in fact very different from the one now being presented, was proposed by two Neuchâtel watchmakers, Frédéric Richard and Olivier Randin, to Christophe Claret – who decided to acquire the rights and patent.
The “floating” sphere display system of the X-TREM-1 is not the only technical feat involved.
The entire construction and finishing of this timepiece meets the extreme demands systematically imposed by Christophe Claret.
Ultra-light titanium was used for the three-dimensional curvex mainplate and the bridges. A determination to enhance ergonomics and reduce volumes guided the designer in his choices. This is indeed a first for such a complex calibre, especially one made in titanium. The case is composed of titanium and white or red gold, or platinum, and produced in limited series of eight per model. The flying tourbillon is fitted with double ceramic bearings to enhance its shock-resistance. It is inclined at a 30-degree angle in order to make it even more clearly visible to the wearer.
 
The hand-wound watch draws its energy from two barrels – a necessity in this case, since they enable the use of a sophisticated display without disturbing the rate of the tourbillon, and thus the accuracy of the watch. The first barrel is reserved for the tourbillon, the second for the hours and minutes. The timing gear train (first barrel) is regulated by the tourbillon; while the display gear train is regulated by a special escapement which picks up the relevant information from the timing gear train. The latter is composed of a lever that releases a tooth of the pallet-wheel of the display gear train every 25 seconds, which is is driven by a cam connected to the timing gear train. When one of the gear trains reaches the end of the power reserve of its respective barrel, the escapement interrupts the running of its neighbour. This conception offers an important advantage in that the tourbillon and display gear trains are independent, thus avoiding disturbances, optimising power reserve and
endowing the watch with excellent precision.
 
But that’s not all. For Christophe Claret, every technical innovation must be validated and approved, which is why each movement is hand assembled from start to finish by the same watchmaker who ensures its technical and aesthetic qualities. At the end of the process, the timepiece undergoes a stringent set of internal testing in the THF (Test Homologation Fiabilité) workshop, after which it earns a certificate guaranteeing its quality and precision.
 
The underlying haute horlogerie criteria governing all activities conducted within the Manufacture also apply to the finishing and the exterior of the timepiece: components are hand-bevelled, flanks are straight-grained, sinks on solid gears are polished and the spokes on open-worked gears are bevelled and polished, screw heads are mirror-polished, and cams, bridges and the tourbillon cage are mirror-polished on the visible side. Christophe Claret devotes particular care to the finishing of each component, which is designed to ensure the overall harmony and aesthetic coherence of the model.
 
Christophe Claret considers the creation of each object as a collective challenge that takes shape by dint of passion and perseverance, along with a significant measure of emotions and dreams. He is never happy just to redo something that has already been done. The brand is resolutely dedicated to technological innovation and never hesitates to venture off the beaten track in its quest to offer unprecedented ways of reading the time.

Technical specifications

CALIBRE FLY11:
Dimensions: 26.6 x 46.4 x 11.94 mm
Number of parts: 419
Number of jewels: 64
Power reserve: 50+ hours
Barrels: Dual barrels: one for the movement gear train, one for the time indications
The tourbillon movement and the time indication gear trains each have their own independent energy supply to optimize power distribution and duration.
 
Tourbillon:
- Escapement: Swiss lever type
- Oscillation frequency of the balance: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
- Tourbillon rotates once every 60 seconds
- Flying tourbillon inclined at 30° supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission
 
Functions:
- Mystery hours and minutes displayed on each side of the case, with indications provided by hollowed steel spheres moving 23 mm inside two cylindrical sapphire tubes - The metal spheres are driven by magnetic carriages following a thread. Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
- Mechanical, hand-wound movement
- Open barrel acts as movement state-of-wind indicator: when the movement is fully wound the spring is centered in the barrel
Mainplate:
- Curvex with sides inclined at 30° angle
- Mainplate and bridges in bead-blasted titanium
- Open-worked ratchet and wheel
Distinctive features:
- Use of precisely-shaped magnetic fields in a mechanical movement
- No mechanical connection between the indications and the movement
- Fine adjustment system for the retrograde display returnspring
EXTERIOR:
Case:
- Rectangular with curvex profile
- Dimensions: 40.80 x 56.80 x 15 mm
- Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Material:
- Polished white gold/bead-blasted black PVD-coated grade 5 titanium
- Polished rose gold/bead-blasted black PVD-coated grade 5 titanium
- Platinum/bead-blasted black PVD-coated grade 5 titanium
Hour and minute displays:
Hours and minutes are indicated by two 4mm-diameter hollowed spheres weighing 0.100 grams that move past sapphire scales marked with thin Super-LumiNova graduations beneath the sapphire
Pusher: Fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the caseband at 12 o’clock
Bows: Winding and time-setting via lift-out rotating “bows” on caseback
Strap: Black hand-sewn alligator leather or rubber-touch leather fitted with an innovative two-screw fastening system that facilitates strap change and avoids damaging the case
Buckle: Titanium folding clasp with gold buckle
Distinctive features: Super-LumiNova along the side of the caseband enables time
reading in the dark
Number of watches: Each version is issued in a limited edition of eight pieces
 

Who's who

Both arrived in watchmaking at about the same time, both tend to take the roads less travelled, both take care to cultivate their distinctiveness – and yet they had never worked together. It has taken Christophe Claret and Laurent Picciotto, unrepentant outsiders in the new wave of watchmaking, twenty years to find each other.

I'd already noticed his creations when he was still working for other brands, all powered by Claret movements,” recalls Laurent Picciotto. “His name would keep cropping up – and always in conjunction with top-level grandes complications.” Gradually, the Claret name established itself and high-flying watches arrived in quick succession, until the Claret name finally became a brand in its own right.

The two brands now complement one another perfectly. Chronopassion is just the right match for the watchmaker, whose creations are as extravagant as he himself is discreet, providing its unrivalled experience in unconventional watches and worldwide renown. The arrival of Christophe Claret at rue Saint-Honoré marks the logical outcome for two independents; champions whose paths meet at the summit. “Claret is so outstanding that collaboration was inevitable,” explains Laurent Picciotto.

From the first sapphire bridges by Claret (“twenty years ahead of their time,” notes Picciotto) to the recent X-Trem-1 and Margot, the master watchmaker from Le Locle has woven a path that successfully combines fun with technical skill and creativity to produce pure poetry. “For me, the Margot is a best-seller: a watch which makes you want to play and that’s also redolent with emotion,” explains Laurent Picciotto. “When you place it on the table, it generates the same reaction as the X-Trem-1: a ‘wow’ effect; the thrill of discovering an outstanding object, so perfected that it’s irresistible.”

Little wonder, then, that Claret’s place at Chronopassion is so natural. It’s that of a coherent brand which has reached full maturity. The watchmaker’s creations can’t even really be termed “complicated” any more; they go much further than that. They explore unknown territory, pushing back the technical and creative boundaries of watchmaking – as do all those selected by Chronopassion. 

Journalist : Olivier Müller

Read more