Czapek - CZAPEK QUAIS DES BERGUES "BLACK PRINCE"
Czapek - CZAPEK QUAIS DES BERGUES "BLACK PRINCE"

CZAPEK QUAIS DES BERGUES "BLACK PRINCE"

Czapek | 18'000 € Tax inc.

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50 SHADES OF BLACK

“It’s important to have a twist in the watch’s design with a disruptive element, it took us a year to find the engine turning pattern that we wanted and to stand out from the tens, if not hundreds, of existing historical motifs. The same is true for dial colours, which we wanted to explore a bit more and introduce unexpected ones.”

 

  • Source of Inspiration

The inspiration for the name “Black Prince” comes from a rare Cuban cigar, very famous among connoisseurs, which disappeared in 2003. (Yet the initial inspiration could be also linked to the original Middle Age “Black Prince”.)

 

The Black Prince is available in the original Czapek & Cie 42.5 mm “Revolution” case. Given that these engine - turned dials (also called Guilloché main) are all handmade, they are only available as strictly limited series of between 15 pieces maximum. Each series is unique and identified by a letter of the alphabet, for instance “A – One out of 15”.

  • The Dial

The Czapek exclusive "Ricochet" guilloché pattern takes the inspiration by an ancient design created by Francois Czapek in the 1850s

Its main characteristic and unique feature is the presence of a double focal point, unlike traditional guilloché patterns with only one focal point at the centre of the dial. The two focal points, corresponding to the two iconic Czapek subdials – indicating small seconds and power reserve – create a fascinating “wave interferences” in the dial. 

A unique innovation: a unique carbon ring of 0.4 mm over a unidirectional carbon sheet. They never catch the light the same way: when one is black the other is grey and vice versa… The ring displays fine marks, like the old vinyl records.

 

The Guilloché “Ricochet” features a bombé guilloché dial in a special gold, silver, palladium and platinum alloy handcrafted by one of the best Swiss ateliers, Metalem. It blends both modern and traditional approaches. For example “Czapek” has been printed directly on the dial rather than engraved in a “cartouche”, to give a touch of modernity together with indexes and one arabic numeral, while the dial has been “bombé” like the pocket watches’ cases. 

 

With the Black Prince Czapek & Cie now takes this distinctive Handcrafted Guilloché design even further with the introduction of a colour rarely seen on engine - turned dials: black.

 

 

  • The Case

The “Black Prince” model pairs a black ADLC titanium case with a galvanised black “guilloche main” dial. The applications of SuperLuminova on the hands and hour markers add an extra sporty touch that differentiates it from the rest of the collection.

In a family one sibling is often more rebellious than the others.

That is the story of the Titanium Collection with a revolutionary case and a unique carbon dial. For the first time in watchmaking, the crown protection has been entirely integrated into the case. Another unique innovation is the carbon ring ‘bobiné’ of only 0.4 mm over a unidirectional carbon sheet. The variety of light reflections creates beautiful black shades.

 

  • The Movement

The SXH1 caliber is a proprietary movement designed by Czapek. It is the first in a family of movements developed specifically for Czapek watches, according to the strictest rules of the watchmaking art. It was conceived in cooperation with Jean-François Mojon, a designer watchmaker who heads the Le Locle based company Chronode.

 

This haute horlogerie mechanical calibre boasts 31 jewels. It is finely decorated and remains aesthetically and functionally true to the 1850 original. The architecture remains symmetrical, and the sandblasted finish is a modern interpretation of the ‘satiné frost’ technique used in the 19th Century – a process of gold plating using mercury evaporation.

 

  • The Straps

Using exceptional leathers, all our straps are handcrafted with peerless dexterity of master leather craftsmen and are the fruit of approximately fifty fundamental, yet intricate steps.

Each strap consists of two parts: the Tip part (the longer part with holes to adjust your strap) & the Element part (the part with the buckle at the end).

 

 

 

Technical specifications

COLLECTION : QUAI DES BERGUES

SERIE : TITANIUM

MODEL : GUILLOCHÉ RICOCHET - BLACK PRINCE 

LIMITED EDITION : 15 PIECES

 

 

CASE

- Black Titanium ADLC case

- External diameter : 42,5mm

- Open diameter : 36,40mm

- Curved sapphire crystal with anti reflective treatment on the inside surface

- Sapphire crystal case bach anti reflective treatment on the inside surface

- Water resistance : 50 meters (5 atm)

 

 

DIAL

- Black Handmade bombé guilloché dial in a special gold, silver, palladium and platinum plate

- SuperLuminova® makers

CZAPEK exclusive « Ricochet design 

- Steel squeletonized hands with rhodium plating and SuperLuminova®

 

 

MOVEMENT 

- Caliber SWH1 : Haute Horlogerie proprietary mechanical hand-wound movement

- Power Reserve : > 168 hours (7 days) on 2 barrel-springs

- Frequency : 3 Hz - 21.600 VpH

- Diameter : 32 mm - 14 lines 1/4

- Height : 4.65 mm

- Finish : Double open ratchets, sandblasted bridges, blues screws, bevelling, final chamfering handmade

 

 

FUNCTIONS

- Hours & Minutes

- Small second at 7h50

- Power Reserve indication with weekdays at 4h50

 

 

STRAP

- Carbon Black Alligator strap

- Black Titanum ADLC buckle

 

Who's who

“You look like a nice guy, so I agree that we meet but my objective will be to convince you not to do it! “

 

These were the first words Xavier de Roquemaurel recalls about Laurent with a smile. “We were in 2013, and this was the beginning of a unique relationship.” Xavier was in his first year of preparing Czapek’s relaunch with Harry Guhl and Sebastien Follonier the watchmaker. He was full of energy but also very conscious of his limitations. “I had had the chance to loose my job (yes it can be a chance but it takes time to see it like this) and was feeling very impressed to be here with Laurent. We met, various times, and he became one of the most critical brand advisors out of the 12 people that we selected for that task.” Hopefully Laurent did not convince Xavier to give up. 

 

Yet the mission of the Czapek team was nearly impossible: the specifications of reviving François Czapek were unmatchable, the business was over crowded and mature, the resources were scarce, the business model seemed unrealistic… these ‘conversations’ turned out to become an incredible melting pot of high end watchmaking experiences… “An extraordinary watch has to do two things at the same time, it has to strike the newbie, who will be impressed by its beauty without understanding its mechanical dimension, and at the same time it has to fascinate the connoisseur who will look at it with a loupe, and smile silently.” Xavier was eager to learn, and these words from Laurent resonated in his mind. He would work and rework with the team every design, every detail, every aspect of their plan until getting to the perfection. “They wanted to achieve something impossible: launch a brand with half a million, raise a million in crowd funding, and sell in the first year 250 watches at the peak of the worse crisis in the industry. This boldness was unique.

 

After two years, they came with the first models, the Quai des Bergues in gold and in titanium. The gold models were beautiful. The level of execution was way above any of the 3D renders we are used to see” recounts Laurent. One element behind these successful first steps is the collaborative approach that the Czapek team follows. They welcome problems and sit together with their suppliers until inventing a solution, which then becomes an innovation. “We try to free the people we work with to help them give the best they can” admits Xavier. “Alone we can’t do much, and our vision is to remain true to the style of the initial founder, François Czapek… so we need the contribution of each stakeholder.”

 

The 21st-century Quai des Bergues does not imitate the past, though. It was carefully designed as though François Czapek had continued working to this day. On November 2, 2015, eight days precisely before launching the brand, the two men were seated in one of their favourite spot in the rue Saint Honoré, sharing a legendary Croque Monsieur at lunch, and Laurent concluded this new chapter in the history of Czapek with a simple “let’s do it!”. In the end it’s all about people and passion… The next chapter is now in 2016 with the subscription in the spring and the first watches available in the fall...

 
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