H Moser & Cie - MOSER PERPETUAL 1
Luc Virginius / Chronopassion
H Moser & Cie - MOSER PERPETUAL 1

MOSER PERPETUAL 1

H Moser & Cie

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See other pictures Luc Virginius / Chronopassion

MOSER PERPETUAL 1 A mechanical watch with a perpetual calendar, of a kind never previously seen: the Moser Perpetual 1. Distinguished with the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the most prestigious and coveted award of the Swiss horological industry. This extraordinary watch of the new generation is equipped with the Moser double barrel and possesses a minimum power reserve of seven days when fully wound. The perpetual calendar, coordinated by purely mechanical means to the various lengths of the months and the leap year, captivates with the unique clarity of its display. Only the easily legible, big date on the dial and the display of the month by a small hand from the centre of the dial reveal to the connoisseur what an horological masterpiece he has before him. The display also referred to as the «Flash Calendar» provides for instantaneous changing of the date from the end of the current month to the start of the following month, without allowing any invalid numerals to appear in the date window. This ensures the clear legibility of the date at all times, without any irritating distractions. If ever the date needs to be adjusted, this can be done both forwards and backwards via the crown of the watch. Adjustment is also possible when the watch is actually in the process of changing the date. A unique safety mechanism ensures that none of the delicate parts is damaged if the watch changes to the next day while the wearer is adjusting the date backwards via the crown. The «Double Pull Crown» mechanism makes it easier to locate the central position of the crown for setting the date. It effectively prevents the inadvertent adjustment of the hands with the crown in its outermost position. The rapidly and easily interchangeable escapement module provides enhanced ease of servicing. This module was used for the first time by Moser and assists the watchmaker to reduce the length of the service times. Another exclusive and unique feature is the execution of the pallet fork and the escapement wheel in hardened solid gold. A three-part, round designer case in precious metal, 40.8 mm in diameter and 11.05 mm thick, with freely formed side surfaces, discreetly convex sapphire glass and a seethrough sapphire glass back give the watch its unmistakable appearance.

Technical specifications

Who's who

H. Moser & Cie is probably the least well-known of the great manufactories – one of the hidden pearls of top watch-making beloved of Laurent Picciotto. How many people know that as early as 1840, H. Moser & Cie had a dominant position on the watch market – in Japan, China, Persia, Turkistan and Russia? And how many know that the manufactory produced no fewer than 70 in-house calibers? Heinrich Moser was not only a watch-maker but above all a visionary and entrepreneur. Like all free thinkers, he was ahead of his time, initially rejected by his home town of Schaffhouse – although paradoxically enough, it was to become a leading watch-making centre with IWC! “Contrary to what you might expect, Mosers are watches that don’t reveal everything at first glance,” emphasises Laurent Picciotto. In the same way, Heinrich Moser’s personality is not easy to delve into. Although he was deeply attached to Schaffhouse, he began his career in Saint-Petersburg. He didn’t set up a manufactory straight away, but as was the custom at that time, founded a trading post for watches produced by him or by other manufacturers. When he decided to develop the use of his own movements, he settled in Locle, rather than Schaffhouse. And his output was aimed not at the European market, but at Nijni Novgorod and Irbit! These two cities hosted the major trade fairs at that time, ensuring rapid commercial development, and leading to him hiring 50 employees. Still going against the flow, at a time when the most famous watchmakers were Swiss and French, Heinrich Moser used German, Russian, Italian and Swedish watchmakers. At the same time, the entrepreneur returned to his home town and began industrialising the region, building things like railways and dams – still in use in 2012! In the end – still in keeping with the somewhat atypical journey of the brand – despite Heinrich Moser having built a great empire with amazing potential for growth, when he died in 1874, his family decided to sell everything. The watchmaking part of the business was disbanded, but Heinrich Moser had nonetheless ensured that the brand name “H. Moser & Cie” remained attached to any watch production based on the fundamentals he had established. And so it was that the brand passed down through the decades (with varying degrees of success) until 2002, when Dr Jürgen Lange filed the original brand name of the founder internationally. It was time for the company Moser Schaffhausen AG to come to life again, reincorporating the Moser line. Today, Heinrich Moser’s great-grandson, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, is honorary chairman. In autumn 2005, at the time of the bicentenary of its founder, Heinrich Moser, the company was making a comeback on the international watchmaking scene. “Today they are subtle, rational pieces,” explains Laurent Picciotto. “We’ve given the brand time to find its feet. The approach is certainly Germanic, but offbeat, with traditional yet uncommon tones and basic functions, concealing high-class workings – large date, retrograde display, 7-day power reserve, and so on. Today’s timepieces really do correspond to precise specifications – a purist’s approach, aimed at strong personalities.” Journalist : Olivier Müller

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