H Moser & Cie - Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Black Golden Edition
Luc Virginius / Chronopassion
H Moser & Cie - Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Black Golden Edition

Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Black Golden Edition

H Moser & Cie
Show price
71'500 €

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Série limitée de 10 pièces

See other pictures Luc Virginius / Chronopassion

calendrier perpétuel titane DLC

A titanium case with polished DLC finishing is the armour protecting this exceptional solid gold movement and dial. In a very rare combination, exemplary of traditional watchmaking craftsmanship with a fresh new approach, H. Moser & Cie. introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Black Golden Edition in a series limited to only 10 pieces. The HMC 341 manufacture calibre housed within this watch is a sophisticated execution of the ingenious perpetual calendar movement (winner of the Grand Prix de Genève for a complicated watch), with solid gold plates and bridges, hand-engraving and a Moser escapement with the Straumann Double Hairspring®.

 

Building on the exceptional qualities of the Perpetual Calendar, this unconventional watch combines a strong, scratch resistant material for the case to house a special H. Moser movement. Set with solid gold plates and bridges, this movement houses a Moser escapement with the Straumann Double Hairspring® and two functional diamond end-stones, chosen for the clear colour they lend to the final design. Double barrels set below two screwed golden chatons enable a minimum 7-day power reserve, indicated by the display on the dial at 9 o’clock. The colours of the gold fumé dial with a sunburst pattern flow from a warm gold to shaded fumé tones that blend into the dark polished titanium case. Punctuated by the Perpetual Flash Calendar at 3 o’clock, the dial has a noticeably large date window with golden numerals. This calendar may be adjusted forward and backward, at any time – an exceptional ability for a perpetual calendar – making it very easy to use. To set the perfect finish, a limited-edition elegant Macassar wooden box accompanies this masterpiece that is available from July 2014.

 

Technical specifications

TECHNICAL FEATURES
  • Reference 1341-0501, titanium model, gold fumé dial
  • Limited Edition of 10 pieces
 
Case
  • DLC-treated solid titanium, three-part case
  • Diameter 40.8 mm, Height 11.1 mm
  • Sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating
  • Curved crystal case-back
 
Dial
  • Solid 18-carat gold, hand-crafted fumé dial with sunburst pattern
  • Solid 18-carat gold appliqué indexes and hands
  • Month indicated with a small arrow-shaped centre hand
  • Sub-dial for seconds
  • Big date display at 3 o’clock with centred numerals
 
Movement
  • Mechanical hand-wound in-house calibre HMC 341
  • Diameter 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height 5.8 mm
  • Frequency 18’000 alternances per hour
  • 28 jewels and screwed gold mounts
  • Power reserve: minimum 7 days with double barrel
  • Solid 18-carat gold plate and bridges with matte finish, hand chamfering and hand-engraved hallmark
  • True bevel wheels and Moser tooth system for all wheels and pinions
  • Interchangeable Moser escapement
  • Original Straumann Double Hairspring®
  • 2 genuine, functional diamond end-stones in the incabloc shock-absorber
  • Traditional screw balance wheel with white gold weight screws
  • Pallet fork and escapement wheel made of solid gold
 
Functions
  • Perpetual Flash Calendar
  • Centre-hand month indicator, 12 hour indexes = 12 months
  • Hour and minute
  • Off-centre seconds dial with hacking seconds function at 6 o’clock
  • Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
  • Leap year indicator and adjustment pusher
  • Double Pull Crown System
 
Strap
  • Hand-sewn carbon-coated matte black alligator leather strap
  • Solid 18-carat rose gold folding clasp with Moser logo
 

Who's who

H. Moser & Cie is probably the least well-known of the great manufactories – one of the hidden pearls of top watch-making beloved of Laurent Picciotto. How many people know that as early as 1840, H. Moser & Cie had a dominant position on the watch market – in Japan, China, Persia, Turkistan and Russia? And how many know that the manufactory produced no fewer than 70 in-house calibers? Heinrich Moser was not only a watch-maker but above all a visionary and entrepreneur. Like all free thinkers, he was ahead of his time, initially rejected by his home town of Schaffhouse – although paradoxically enough, it was to become a leading watch-making centre with IWC! “Contrary to what you might expect, Mosers are watches that don’t reveal everything at first glance,” emphasises Laurent Picciotto. In the same way, Heinrich Moser’s personality is not easy to delve into. Although he was deeply attached to Schaffhouse, he began his career in Saint-Petersburg. He didn’t set up a manufactory straight away, but as was the custom at that time, founded a trading post for watches produced by him or by other manufacturers. When he decided to develop the use of his own movements, he settled in Locle, rather than Schaffhouse. And his output was aimed not at the European market, but at Nijni Novgorod and Irbit! These two cities hosted the major trade fairs at that time, ensuring rapid commercial development, and leading to him hiring 50 employees. Still going against the flow, at a time when the most famous watchmakers were Swiss and French, Heinrich Moser used German, Russian, Italian and Swedish watchmakers. At the same time, the entrepreneur returned to his home town and began industrialising the region, building things like railways and dams – still in use in 2012! In the end – still in keeping with the somewhat atypical journey of the brand – despite Heinrich Moser having built a great empire with amazing potential for growth, when he died in 1874, his family decided to sell everything. The watchmaking part of the business was disbanded, but Heinrich Moser had nonetheless ensured that the brand name “H. Moser & Cie” remained attached to any watch production based on the fundamentals he had established. And so it was that the brand passed down through the decades (with varying degrees of success) until 2002, when Dr Jürgen Lange filed the original brand name of the founder internationally. It was time for the company Moser Schaffhausen AG to come to life again, reincorporating the Moser line. Today, Heinrich Moser’s great-grandson, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, is honorary chairman. In autumn 2005, at the time of the bicentenary of its founder, Heinrich Moser, the company was making a comeback on the international watchmaking scene. “Today they are subtle, rational pieces,” explains Laurent Picciotto. “We’ve given the brand time to find its feet. The approach is certainly Germanic, but offbeat, with traditional yet uncommon tones and basic functions, concealing high-class workings – large date, retrograde display, 7-day power reserve, and so on. Today’s timepieces really do correspond to precise specifications – a purist’s approach, aimed at strong personalities.”

Journalist : Olivier Müller

 
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