H Moser & Cie - THE PERPETUAL CALENDAR HERITAGE , H.Moser & Cie
Luc Virginius / Chronopassion
H Moser & Cie - THE PERPETUAL CALENDAR HERITAGE , H.Moser & Cie

THE PERPETUAL CALENDAR HERITAGE , H.Moser & Cie

H Moser & Cie

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Limited edition of 10 pieces

See other pictures Luc Virginius / Chronopassion

LINKING TRADITION AND MODERNITY:

Marking the 10th anniversary of its perpetual calendar, H. Moser & Cie. pays tribute to exceptional artisan watchmaking. This exceptional timepiece is an exercise in style linking tradition and modernity, two elements which coexist in all creations by H. Moser & Cie. The Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is a salute to watchmaking past and present. It is the distillation of H. Moser & Cie's 187 years of watchmaking expertise

The inspiration behind the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition came from an H. Moser pocket watch dating from the late 19th century in the H. Moser & Cie. collection. The case on this model, made from a striking blue, engraved enamel and studded with diamonds, inspired the watchmakers at the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture to reinterpret this watch, calling on the best craftsmen to work on the case. Featuring "cloisonné" enamel on a case with two covers, guilloché, engraving and setting techniques as well as "Grand Feu" enamel on the dial, in association with a modern in-house, hand-wound calibre made from solid gold: the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is the synthesis of the greatest arts in watchmaking craftsmanship. It also symbolises the link between the past and the present for H. Moser & Cie., founded in 1828, through a reinterpretation of an historic watch which retains its original features, now in a larger dimension and fitted with a strap. The red gold case with two covers has therefore been enlarged and features extremely fine lugs, while respecting its original design. On either side of the watch is a cover with hand-engraved, guilloché decoration, extending up the side of the case. These have then been enamelled, demonstrating the highest level of craftsmanship, and set with diamonds on the dial side. Paired with a crocodile leather strap, this beautifully rounded case is as smooth as a pebble. In reference to the historic timepiece, H. Moser & Cie. fitted its Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition with a notched crown equipped with the Double Pull Crown system and fitted with a push-button mechanism for opening the upper case cover.

Technical specifications

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – PERPETUAL CALENDAR HERITAGE LIMITED EDITION 

Reference 8341-0400, 5N red gold model, pocket watch-type case, white enamel dial, crocodile leather strap 

Case
Pocket watch-type case in 5N red gold, diamond-set (28 diamonds, 0.31 carat) and enamelled Diameter: 46.0 mm, height: 13.6 mm
Sapphire crystal 

Dial 

White "Grand Feu" enamel dial 

Hand-painted Roman numerals 

Dovetail-shaped blued hands 

Month indicated with a small arrow-shaped centre hand 

Offset small seconds
Large date display at 3 o’clock 

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound in-house calibre HMC 341
Diameter 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height 5.8 mm
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
28 jewels and screwed gold mounts
Power reserve: minimum 7-day with a double barrel
Solid 18-carat gold plate and bridges with a matte finish, hand chamfering and hand-engraved hallmark True bevel wheels and Moser tooth system for all wheels and pinions
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann Double Hairspring®
2 genuine, functional diamond end-stones in the incabloc shock-absorber
Traditional screw balance wheel with gold weight screws
Pallet fork and escapement wheel made of solid gold 

Functions
Perpetual calendar
Centre-hand month indicator, 12 hour indices = 12 months Hours and minutes
Offset seconds dial with hacking seconds function at 6 o’clock Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Leap year indicator and adjustment push-button
Double Pull Crown mechanism 

Strap
Hand-stitched crocodile leather strap
18-carat solid 5N red gold folding clasp with Moser logo 

 

Who's who

H. Moser & Cie is probably the least well-known of the great manufactories – one of the hidden pearls of top watch-making beloved of Laurent Picciotto. How many people know that as early as 1840, H. Moser & Cie had a dominant position on the watch market – in Japan, China, Persia, Turkistan and Russia? And how many know that the manufactory produced no fewer than 70 in-house calibers? Heinrich Moser was not only a watch-maker but above all a visionary and entrepreneur. Like all free thinkers, he was ahead of his time, initially rejected by his home town of Schaffhouse – although paradoxically enough, it was to become a leading watch-making centre with IWC! “Contrary to what you might expect, Mosers are watches that don’t reveal everything at first glance,” emphasises Laurent Picciotto. In the same way, Heinrich Moser’s personality is not easy to delve into. Although he was deeply attached to Schaffhouse, he began his career in Saint-Petersburg. He didn’t set up a manufactory straight away, but as was the custom at that time, founded a trading post for watches produced by him or by other manufacturers. When he decided to develop the use of his own movements, he settled in Locle, rather than Schaffhouse. And his output was aimed not at the European market, but at Nijni Novgorod and Irbit! These two cities hosted the major trade fairs at that time, ensuring rapid commercial development, and leading to him hiring 50 employees. Still going against the flow, at a time when the most famous watchmakers were Swiss and French, Heinrich Moser used German, Russian, Italian and Swedish watchmakers. At the same time, the entrepreneur returned to his home town and began industrialising the region, building things like railways and dams – still in use in 2012! In the end – still in keeping with the somewhat atypical journey of the brand – despite Heinrich Moser having built a great empire with amazing potential for growth, when he died in 1874, his family decided to sell everything. The watchmaking part of the business was disbanded, but Heinrich Moser had nonetheless ensured that the brand name “H. Moser & Cie” remained attached to any watch production based on the fundamentals he had established. And so it was that the brand passed down through the decades (with varying degrees of success) until 2002, when Dr Jürgen Lange filed the original brand name of the founder internationally. It was time for the company Moser Schaffhausen AG to come to life again, reincorporating the Moser line. Today, Heinrich Moser’s great-grandson, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, is honorary chairman. In autumn 2005, at the time of the bicentenary of its founder, Heinrich Moser, the company was making a comeback on the international watchmaking scene. “Today they are subtle, rational pieces,” explains Laurent Picciotto. “We’ve given the brand time to find its feet. The approach is certainly Germanic, but offbeat, with traditional yet uncommon tones and basic functions, concealing high-class workings – large date, retrograde display, 7-day power reserve, and so on. Today’s timepieces really do correspond to precise specifications – a purist’s approach, aimed at strong personalities.”

Journalist : Olivier Müller

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