H Moser & Cie | 16'000 € Tax inc.

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MAYU A fine, elegant watch with a certain hint of understatement: the Mayu from Moser. The name of the watch is a tribute to Heinrich Moser’s first wife, Charlotte Mayu. The family seat, Charlottenfels manor near Schaffhausen, was also named after her. A timepiece with a decidedly elegant design: As a mechanical watch with a height of only 9.3 mm and with a diameter of 38.8 mm, it is not too large for contemporary tastes. 


The watchmakers at Moser have nevertheless succeeded in accommodating a large barrel in this volume. The result is a power reserve of 80 hours, which ensures that the watch will continue to run for at least three days even without winding. The harmonious design of the dial is particularly enhanced by the rare, large pocket watch seconds hand. Drawing on pocket watches for its inspiration, the lower end of this subsidiary seconds display sits as close as possible to the minute ring. This position can only be achieved with a large movement designed specifically for the purpose without a movement retaining ring. 


The Mayu’s Cal. 321.503 movement thus exhibits an imposing diameter of 32 mm. This corresponds quite closely to 14 lines in horological terms. Applied, facetted and diamond-polished indices, but also the dial with its sun pattern ground finish, play with the reflected sunlight. The three-dimensional hands, which are used only in Moser watches, are optimally adapted to the dimensions of the watch in both length and form. In this watch, too, the interchangeable escapement module used for the first time by Moser offers high exclusivity. It guarantees that the watch will retain its value and helps to reduce the time taken for the cleaning and servicing required by all mechanical watches about every five years. 


Another world-first is the execution of the pallet fork and escapement wheel in hardened solid gold with functionally optimized surfaces to minimize friction and the associated wear. The Mayu has a three-part case made of precious metal with a discreetly convex sapphire glass and a see-through sapphire glass back. 



Led by a young, dynamic and ambitious team, H. Moser & Cie. has positioned itself as a decisively innovative player in the Haute Horlogerie sector. In a world awash with aggressive branding and marketing strategies, the independent manufacture has gone back to basics to unveil a watch of absolute purity. This model, which features neither indices nor a logo, is the antithesis of the dial overloaded with useless functions, and turns the spotlight back onto distinctively human luxury which remains true to the central aim of watchmaking: indicating the time. 


With the creativity of watchmakers seemingly limitless, and with the emergence of the smart watch, H. Moser & Cie. has returned to its roots and to those of watchmaking, distinguishing itself by unveiling a timepiece of incredible purity. Showcasing its well-known fumé dial – a signature of the brand – stripped of frills, indices and logos, H. Moser & Cie. has put the accent on luxury craftsmanship and the beauty of expertise so often eclipsed by the surrounding marketing campaigns, to remind us that behind a logo lies the work of talented watchmakers and dial makers.


With this resolutely vintage piece, H. Moser & Cie. also demonstrates that a real luxury product is immediately identifiable even without a visible logo or brand identifier, just like a painting that remains unsigned by the artist. A case with alternating polished and satin-finished flanks, a fumé dial with a sunburst pattern, noble materials – an 18 carat yellow gold and alligator exterior – and a movement featuring traditional finishes: H. Moser & Cie. stands for distinctive luxury. 


As Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., explains: "when our customers buy an H. Moser, they are looking for a manufacture watch with a distinctive design created by real craftsmen. We place the emphasis on the product, not on the logo or marketing." In fact, behind the apparent simplicity of the latest piece from H. Moser & Cie. lies almost a century of experience.


Created in accordance with the purest artistic dial-making tradition by one of H. Moser & Cie.'s partners, the fumé dial has become an integral part of the identity of this small watch Manufacture from Schaffhausen, whether in red gold fumé, midnight blue fumé or its iconic original incarnation. Its sober elegance belies a complex production process that uses tried and tested techniques. Each dial is machined in the traditional way, coloured and hand-finished to obtain the famous sunburst pattern, which produces a subtle play of light that gradually fades towards the edges and making this watch a thing of beauty.


This model lends itself to philosophical reflection, designed as a conceptual piece that can be reproduced upon special request. 

Technical specifications

- 38,8 mm in diameter
- 18K Yellow Gold case in 3 parts
- Sapphire glass
- See-through sapphire glass back
- « Cosmic Green fumé »  with sun pattern ground finish
- CAL. HMC 325.503
- Hand-wound with true bevel wheels
- 3 days Power reserve
- Moser tooth system in wheel train and pinions
- H Moser interchangeable escapement with Straumann double hairspring 
- Hours & Minutes
- Power reserve indicator on the back
- Brown alligator leather 
- Solid 18k yellow gold pin buckle

Who's who

H. Moser & Cie is probably the least well-known of the great manufactories – one of the hidden pearls of top watch-making beloved of Laurent Picciotto. How many people know that as early as 1840, H. Moser & Cie had a dominant position on the watch market – in Japan, China, Persia, Turkistan and Russia? And how many know that the manufactory produced no fewer than 70 in-house calibers?
Heinrich Moser was not only a watch-maker but above all a visionary and entrepreneur. Like all free thinkers, he was ahead of his time, initially rejected by his home town of Schaffhouse – although paradoxically enough, it was to become a leading watch-making centre with IWC! “Contrary to what you might expect, Mosers are watches that don’t reveal everything at first glance,” emphasises Laurent Picciotto. In the same way, Heinrich Moser’s personality is not easy to delve into.
Although he was deeply attached to Schaffhouse, he began his career in Saint-Petersburg. He didn’t set up a manufactory straight away, but as was the custom at that time, founded a trading post for watches produced by him or by other manufacturers. When he decided to develop the use of his own movements, he settled in Locle, rather than Schaffhouse. And his output was aimed not at the European market, but at Nijni Novgorod and Irbit! These two cities hosted the major trade fairs at that time, ensuring rapid commercial development, and leading to him hiring 50 employees. 
Still going against the flow, at a time when the most famous watchmakers were Swiss and French, Heinrich Moser used German, Russian, Italian and Swedish watchmakers. At the same time, the entrepreneur returned to his home town and began industrialising the region, building things like railways and dams – still in use in 2012! In the end – still in keeping with the somewhat atypical journey of the brand – despite Heinrich Moser having built a great empire with amazing potential for growth, when he died in 1874, his family decided to sell everything.
The watchmaking part of the business was disbanded, but Heinrich Moser had nonetheless ensured that the brand name “H. Moser & Cie” remained attached to any watch production based on the fundamentals he had established. And so it was that the brand passed down through the decades (with varying degrees of success) until 2002, when Dr Jürgen Lange filed the original brand name of the founder internationally. It was time for the company Moser Schaffhausen AG to come to life again, reincorporating the Moser line.
Today, Heinrich Moser’s great-grandson, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, is honorary chairman. In autumn 2005, at the time of the bicentenary of its founder, Heinrich Moser, the company was making a comeback on the international watchmaking scene. “Today they are subtle, rational pieces,” explains Laurent Picciotto. “We’ve given the brand time to find its feet. The approach is certainly Germanic, but offbeat, with traditional yet uncommon tones and basic functions, concealing high-class workings – large date, retrograde display, 7-day power reserve, and so on. Today’s timepieces really do correspond to precise specifications – a purist’s approach, aimed at strong personalities.”
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