officine panerai  - RADIOMIR 8 Days GMT Pink Gold – 45MM PAM00538
Luc Virginius / Chronopassion
officine panerai  - RADIOMIR 8 Days GMT Pink Gold – 45MM PAM00538

RADIOMIR 8 Days GMT Pink Gold – 45MM PAM00538

officine panerai

Sold out Contact us
Notice of laurent

See other pictures Luc Virginius / Chronopassion

RADIOMIR 8 DAYS GMT ORO ROSSO – 45MM

Officine Panerai presents the Radiomir 8 Days GMT Oro Rosso, an exclusive Special Edition of great elegance which pays tribute to the long history of brand by reinterpreting the classic Radiomir with details that are characteristic of sophisticated high quality watchmaking. The new Radiomir 8 Days GMT Oro Rosso has a cushion case of polished red gold which encloses a dial of historic inspiration, derived directly from a rare model of the late 1930s. The design of the dial is minimalist with simple linear and dot hour markers. The various functions can be read directly: the date at 3 o’clock; the linear indication of the power reserve; and the small seconds counter with a.m./p.m. indicator for the second time zone. The dial is deep blue with a satiné soleil finish, elegantly set off by the warm tone of the 5Npt red gold, an alloy that has a higher percentage of copper than yellow or pink gold and a proportion of platinum. The same alloy, which provides greater toughness and strength, is used for the adjustable clasp closing the blue alligator strap, which is fixed to the case by the system of removable strap attachments patented by Officine Panerai. The open back reveals the sophisticated technical and aesthetic details of the hand-wound P.2002/10 calibre: this is a particularly complex version of the first in-house movement made in the Officine Panerai Manufacture at Neuchâtel.
 

Technical specifications

MOVEMENT Hand-wound mechanical with skeletonized bridges, Panerai P.2002/10 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai,13¾ lignes, 6.6 mm thick, 21 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour, KIF Parechoc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 8 days, 3 barrels. 246 components.
The P.2002/10 calibre is a particularly complex version of the first in-house movement made in the Officine Panerai Manufacture at Neuchâtel. The bridges and barrels are finely skeletonised, so the details that appeal so much to lovers of haute horlogerie can be seen, such as the wheelwork in the same colour as the case, the progressive unwinding of the spring as the watch is running and its rewinding when it is being wound. The brushed bridges with gold-coloured engraving are finished with anglage (chamfering) while the plate is decorated with perlage (circular graining). As well as offering the functions of hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT and seconds reset, the P.2002 movement has a power reserve of at least eight days, thanks to the system patented byOfficine Panerai using three spring barrels arranged in series. The long power reserve of eight days has been part of the history of the brand since the 1940s, when it was important that the Panerai watches on the wrists of the commandos of the Italian navy should operate for long periods without requiring frequent use of the winding crown, one of the elements most vulnerable to external stresses.
 
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, second time zone, 24h indicator, linear power reserve indicator, seconds reset.
CASE Diameter 45 mm, 18 ct. polished red gold with removable wire loop strap attachments (patented). Screw-down winding crown personalized OP.
BEZEL 18 ct. polished red gold.
 
Red gold is an alloy composed of gold, copper and other metals, and due to its technical properties and elegant appearance, it is an ideal material for use in fine watchmaking. The red gold used by Officine Panerai is a special alloy, different from standard red gold, called 5Npt.
Panerai 5Npt has a percentage of copper giving the material an intense red hue that is
particularly elegant and sophisticated. Platinum is another fundamental element of the Panerai red gold alloy, as it helps to prevent the metal from oxidising. 5Npt has another important property: it has a high mechanical resistance than standard pink and yellow gold. It is the perfect material for Panerai high-end watches.
 
BACK See-through sapphire crystal.
 
DIAL Blue with luminous hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock, seconds and 24h indicator at 9 o’clock, linear power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock.
CRYSTAL Sapphire, formed of corundum, 1.2 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
WATER-RESISTANCE 5 bar (~ 50 metres).
STRAP PANERAI personalised alligator strap and 18 ct. polished red gold adjustable buckle.

Who's who

It’s probably not the timepieces themselves that tie Chronopassion to Panerai. The relationship is closer and stronger than that. Laurent Picciotto goes so far as to describe it as “magical”. Perhaps the truth is more to do with the eternally ‘outsider’ character of the Italian brand – and of Chronopassion's founder. There is also the detail of their shared origins as passionate retailers. Indeed, it’s a little-known fact that both the Panerai brand and its founder, Giovanni, were first and foremost in the business of watch and watchmaking tool sales and repairs. As early as 1850, Giovanni Panerai had made his name as a watchmaker in his native city of Florence. His son, Leon Fracesco, transformed his father's occupation into a flourishing business: in 1907, 50,000 copies of his watch and timepiece catalogue were published! What was then known as Orologeria Svizzera sold Rolex, Longines, Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, Patek Philippe and other brands. A new century opened a new chapter: the brand supplied the Defence Ministry with its first precision optical instruments. In 1910, the first experiments on luminous materials began and a system for making instrument dials glow in the dark was perfected. Luminescence was produced using a mixture of zinc sulphide and radium bromide, later known as Radiomir. The road ahead became clear: Panerai already sold movements, and simply had to combine this skill with its recently acquired expertise in dials to create its first watch – a feat that was achieved in 1935. One amusing aspect of this tale is that the first Panerais were driven by a Rolex movement. The Italian army was of course the first client. This was in 1937 – and the virtual monopoly of the military for Panerai watches continued until 1993 ! “It was these very strict specifications – purely military, functional and uncompromising – that drew me to Panerai,” relates Laurent Picciotto. The founder of Chronopassion already had a selection of timepieces with a strong identity to his name and had been seeking new niche brands for a number of years. “Our first collaboration dates back to 1995. At that time Panerai was a totally independent micro-brand. It was a curiosity – and in my opinion, a convincing alternative to sports brands that were seeking to be positioned on the same military niche without having any credibility in the field.” Did love at first sight lead to overnight success? “Far from it!” laughs Laurent Picciotto. “I sold barely a dozen pieces a year, mainly Mare Nostrums (ed: the original chronograph from 1943, which was still at the prototype stage for historic reasons). History has led to these timepieces now being among the most prized collectors’ items,” he says with a wry smile. This apparent lack of demand did not dent Chronopassion's belief in Panerai, however. The Vendôme Luxury group, later known as Richemont, apparently had a similar instinct, too: it bought out the brand in 1997. The group lost no time in using its resources to raise the profile of Panerai. A series of 1000 timepieces were offered on the Italian market – and were snapped up immediately. A distribution network was established. “There were twelve of us retailers at the first meeting. Eleven of them had never sold a Panerai timepiece before. I was the only one who had,” recalls Laurent Picciotto. At this point the story could have taken a commercial turn, with success guaranteed. However Panerai once again showed it was different: demand was driven by the brand's fans, known as paneristis. According to Laurent Picciotto, they are characterised by “acute collectionitis” – and his sales increased 25-fold. “It was an internal explosion. Completely unprecedented,” he now admits. Panerai made the most of this collectors’ syndrome by producing only limited, numbered series. “This meant that there was often a queue in front of our building for very special series, in particular our series featuring the Chronopassion engraving,” he continues. “In addition, even when we put a sign in the window saying “Not yet released” to try and keep our fans at bay, some of them would come into the shop to try and get more information.” Magical is indeed the word. 
 
Journalist : Olivier Müller
Read more