richard mille - RM 028 RICHARD MILLE , Diver
Luc Virginius / Chronopassion
richard mille - RM 028 RICHARD MILLE , Diver

RM 028 RICHARD MILLE , Diver

richard mille

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See other pictures Luc Virginius / Chronopassion

RM 028 RICHARD MILLE , Diver

Following the directions set out by the first diver’s watch created by Richard Mille, the RM 025, the RM 028 utilizes a number of key elements that demarcate the theme of diving within the collection. Cased in a slightly smaller diameter of 47mm, this new creation has all the hallmarks of the uncompromising character that the watches created by Richard Mille possess.
Its exceptional tripartite case with unidirectional lunette and water resistance to 300 meters follows ISO diver’s watch norm 6425, creating a perfect environment to house the skeletonized movement with variable rotor geometry, a Richard Mille exclusive.

Technical specifications

ROTOR WITH VARIABLE GEOMETRY
  • Arm in grade 2 titanium
  • Flange in grade 2 titanium
  • 6-positional adjustment via grade 5 titanium screws
  • Ribs in 18-carat, high palladium content white gold
  • Weight segment in tungsten/cobalt alloy
  • Ceramic ball bearings
  • Unidirectional anti-clockwise winding direction
  • This exclusive RICHARD MILLE design allows the rewinding of the mainspring to be adapted most effectively to the user’s activity level whether it be sporting or non-sporting environments. By adjusting the setting of the rib’s placement, the rotor’s inertia is modified to either speed up the winding process in the case of leisurely arm movements, or slow it down when sporting activities are pursued. As a result, this invention allows the movement’s winding mechanism to be optimized and personalized to the owner’s lifestyle.
POWER RESERVE
  • Circa 55 hours.
BOTTOM PLATE, BRIDGES AND BALANCE COCK MADE OF TITANIUM
  • The manufacture of these components in grade 2 titanium with black PVD coating allows the whole assembly to be given great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for th perfect functioning of the gear train.
ROTOR WITH VARIABLE GEOMETRY
  • Arm in grade 2 titanium
  • Flange in grade 2 titanium
  • 6-positional adjustment via grade 5 titanium screws
  • Ribs in 18-carat, high palladium content white gold
  • Weight segment in tungsten/cobalt alloy
  • Ceramic ball bearings
  • Unidirectional anti-clockwise winding direction
  • This exclusive RICHARD MILLE design allows the rewinding of the mainspring to be adapted most effectively to the user’s activity level whether it be sporting or non-sporting environments. By adjusting the setting of the rib’s placement, the rotor’s inertia is modified to either speed up thewinding process in the case of leisurely arm movements, or slow it down when sporting activities are pursued. As a result, this invention allows the movement’s winding mechanism to be optimized and personalized to the owner’s lifestyle.
 
BOTTOM PLATE, BRIDGES AND BALANCE COCK MADE OF TITANIUM
  • The manufacture of these components in grade 2 titanium with black PVD coating allows the whole assembly to be given great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train.
  • Dimensions of movement: 30.25 x 28.45 mm
  • Thickness: 4.33 mm
  • Number of jewels: 32
  • Barrel arbor – in AP 20 steel
  • Balance: GLUCYDUR, 3 arms, inertia moment 4.8 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53º
  • Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
  • Balance spring: ELINVAR NIVAROX
  • Shock protection: INCABLOC 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
  • Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)
  • Stem with three positions: manual winding, time setting, date adjustment
FINISHING MOVEMENT
  • Bottom plate and bridges in hand-ground titanium, wet sandblasted, PVD treated
  • Burnished pivots
  • Diamond polished sinks on the bridge side
  • Pinions with undercuts
  • Sandblasted and rhodium-plated, beveled wheels
STEEL PARTS
  • Sapphire blasted surfaces
  • Anglage and polishing by hand
  • Screw slot and screws beveled and polished with rounded and polished tip

Who's who

When he talks about Richard Mille, Laurent Picciotto doesn’t say “I” and “he”, but “we”. Just two letters say it all – well, almost. As far as Chronopassion is concerned, this is not about any old brand, but a shared history: that of two men who originally met in Rue Saint Honoré “to chat together for a couple of hours a week – then, five, ten, twenty or thirty hours,” before bringing out the first RM001 one year later. Be that as it may, the friendship between Laurent Picciotto and Richard Mille doesn’t stretch back for decades, to their schooldays, or anything like that. “We first came across each other at the time when Richard was working at Mauboussin, on the first tourbillons developed by the brand,” recalls the owner of Chronopassion. When – as yet unaware of the fact that he was to become “RM” for the world at large – Mille left Mauboussin to launch his own brand, he consulted Laurent Picciotto. Not only did he consult him, he took on board his thinking, and ultimately enlisted Picciotto as a partner when he set up his company. The brand spirit was already in their minds – an uncompromising timepiece, featuring a completely new design, outstanding materials and a brand new assembly technique. Once the specifications had been established, the two men contacted Renaud & Papi to implement production. They were to become RM’s third partner; today, some fifteen years later, they are still crafting its collections. The line taken ahead of presentation of the first timepiece was equally hard-nosed. “Nobody knew Richard, we didn’t really want to make a big thing out of Renaud & Papi and we ourselves had no story to tell at all. In other words, we were swimming completely against the tide,” recalls Laurent Picciotto. “We first attended BaselWorld in 2000. We placed the watch on the table and said ‘There you are, that’s all we’ve got to say, it’s an RM001, yours for €176,000.’ And it worked.” Indeed, the pricing policy was the subject of much debate, right from the outset. “Looking back, it’s easy to say that the approach was the right one,” explains Laurent Picciotto. “But twelve years ago, we’d sometimes break out in a cold sweat thinking about it. Richard and I were both completely focussed on the watch, scarcely paying attention to the final bill until the first one was finished. When we totted it up and it came to over 170,000 euros, there was a bit of a hush. The silence between us was far more eloquent than any number of words could have been. For a while we wondered whether we had overreached ourselves. But it wasn’t long before we were right back with our initial motives – an RM should brook no compromise.” Richard Mille did not hesitate to take this radical approach right to the limit. “When he met a client who had doubts about how sturdy the RM was – whereas that had always been a strong point in its design – Richard would take off his own and throw it on the floor. That was his way of saying ‘I’ve said as much, and now I’m proving it’”, recalls Laurent Picciotto with a smile. “It would certainly make quite an impression!” Looking back, the Richard Mille brand has surpassed even its own designers’ expectations. Having emerged at a time when the market was not yet offering a new brand or revival every couple of months, it surprised everybody. Later on, a lot of independent watchmakers took a similar direction, saying to themselves “If Richard has managed, I can too.” RMs are still as radical as ever, though. Laurent Picciotto sums it up. “Some signs never lie. We’ve never yet seen a client pick up an RM whose first words were ‘it reminds me of a...’ Some fifteen years on from the RM001, nobody’s got anywhere near finishing that sentence.” 
 
Journalist : Olivier Müller
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