
Number 7/20
By integrating the four tourbillon complications, the precision indicator, regulator and power-reserve into the round casing of the Vintage WW2 Military Tourbillon, Bell & Ross gives a new face to the spirit of «fine watchmaking» expressed since the release of the BR01 Tourbillon in 2007.
The crosswise layout of the various functions combines readability and functionality. Raising the protective covers reveals the dial in all its glory. The contrast of the matte black flange around the circumference, the “Côte de Genève” decorated metallic surfaces and additional counters, which play on this contrast to reinforce readability, creates visual depth and a «three dimensional» effect combining elegance with the precision of the indications.
Remaining loyal to its military inspiration in giving priority to the readability of short time cycles, the WW2 Military Tourbillon features a regulator movement, a watchmaking principle whereby hours and minutes are displayed via separate dials. While the minute hand has a central axis and sweeps across the entire dial, the hour hand has a
dedicated miniature dial positioned at 12 o’clock.
At the 3 o’clock position, another hand (Trust Index), turning on a semi-circle, indicates the level of precision of the movement on the basis of the tension of the barrel spring. At 9 o’clock is the power reserve indicator (5 days), which rounds off the information provided by the precision indicator. Between them, these complications mean that the wearer of the watch is not required to wind up the movement to ensure the optimal function of the watch.
Finally, the dial opens at 6 o’clock revealing the tourbillon’s pink gold “cage”, of which a rotation lasting one minute allows the Bell & Ross «&» symbol to play the role of a small second.
DETAILS IN THE CONSTRUCTION AND FINISH OF THE CASING CAPTURE THE SPIRIT OF A PERIOD TIMEPIECE
The Bell & Ross designers have opted to make the Vintage WW2 Military Tourbillon a link between yesterday, today and tomorrow.
Thus, while the open lid evokes memories of the grilles protecting the military watches of bygone eras, its transparent sapphire caseback allows its carbon fiber bridges and plates to be seen; this high-tech material was chosen on account of its strength and light weight.
Although the casing seemingly stems from the past, with its patina style and its oversized striated crown to allow for good grip, it is made from satin-polished Grade 5 titanium, to which a PVD treatment lends a “gunmetal gray” color, entirely in keeping with the spirit of the watch.
The use of a sophisticated material such as titanium enables the reconciliation of the 45 mm diameter of the casing with Bell & Ross requirements regarding weight and strength.
The bracelet, available in aged leather or brown alligator skin and reminiscent of the elegance of early wristwatches, plays the “wearer comfort” card thanks to its flexibility and the presence of movable lugs.
All of these construction and finish details — whether the hinge of the lid and the design of its central openings, the movable lugs of the bracelet or the distinct color of the titanium — make the Vintage WW2 Military Tourbillon a sophisticated watch, whereby all of the specific details convey the spirit of authenticity that guided the design team.
With the Vintage WW2 Military Tourbillon, the most recent addition to its very exclusive collection of fine timepieces, Bell & Ross once again expresses its personal view of the past. By integrating a tourbillon, a regulator, a precision indicator and a power-reserve indicator beneath a protective lid, thus evoking an entire chapter of history, the company decidedly emphasizes its complications. And while the character-filled spirit of this timepiece —of which only 20 have been produced— draws inspiration from the legendary watchmaking of the past, its materials make it a watch that is entirely in keeping with its time, and one that also looks towards the future.