BLACK BAY CHRONO
To mark 50 years of its chronographs, TUDOR is relaunching its Black Bay Chrono model in steel with a reworked case and two dial options with contrasting sub-counters in the purest tradition of the sports chronograph.
Since the launch in 1970 of the Oysterdate model, its first chronograph, TUDOR has always produced watches that are closely tied to the world of motor sport. Since 1954, TUDOR has likewise been constantly improving its professional divers’ watches. The Black Bay Chrono model combines these traditions in a sports chronograph for purists, with contrasting sub-counters and a high-performance automatic Manufacture Calibre, with column wheel and vertical clutch.
KEY POINTS
1. Satin-brushed and polished case in 316L stainless steel, 41 mm in diameter, with a fixed bezel in 316L stainless steel, insert in black anodised aluminium with tachymetric scale
2. Domed matt black dial or opaline, with contrasting circular sub-counters
3. “Snowflake” hands, one of the hallmarks of the TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with grade A, Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
4. Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT5813, certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with a silicon balance spring, a 70-hour power reserve, a column wheel and vertical clutch
5. A choice of three bracelet designs: black Jacquard fabric, cuff in black aged leather or riveted steel
6. Five-year transferable guarantee, without registration or mandatory maintenance checks
THE SPIRIT OF EARTH AND SEA
Remaining faithful to the Black Bay aesthetic, the Black Bay Chrono model has made the famous “Snowflake” hands – a brand signature for divers’ watches since 1969 – its own, in a version honed to ensure optimum readability on its domed dial. Available in two versions, matt black or opaline, the dial includes two hollowed sub-counters in contrasting colours, matt black and white opaline respectively, for optimum readability. Inspired by the first generation of TUDOR chronographs, there is a 45-minute counter and a date aperture positioned at 6 o'clock. The recognisable characteristics of the Black Bay are preserved in a steel case with a 41-millimetre diameter refined by the ingenious cut of the lower part of the sapphire crystal and a repositioned movement. Typical of the scrupulous attention to detail that is characteristic of the brand, the design of the stainless steel pushers has been inspired by the very first generation of TUDOR chronographs. A fixed bezel in stainless steel with a tachymetric scale insert in black anodised aluminium completes the distinguished appearance of this sporty new chronograph.
JACQUARD-WOVEN STRAP, STEEL BRACELET OR CUFF
The fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. In 2020, TUDOR and Julien Faure, a 150-year old family company, celebrated ten years of partnership that began with the Heritage Chrono – the first model to be equipped with a fabric strap created by the craftsmen – that was launched at Baselworld 2010.
The Black Bay Chrono model features a black strap with a motif chosen by TUDOR and woven by the craftsmen. The model is also available mounted on a stainless steel bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets made by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having rivet heads for attaching the links, shown on the side of the bracelet. The links also had a distinct stepped construction. These two aesthetic details appear on today’s model, which still integrates modern manufacturing methods with solid links. Finally, entirely in keeping with the spirit of “1970s racing”, the Black Bay Chrono is offering another choice of bracelet: a bund in aged black leather with ecru topstitching and folding clasp.
THE MANUFACTURE CHRONOGRAPH CALIBRE MT5813
The Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT5813, which powers the Black Bay Chrono model, displays hour, minute, second, chronograph and date functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres. Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.
Boasting a 70-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring, the Manufacture MT5813 chronograph Calibre is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance exceeding the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on -2 +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled. A high-performance movement, it was crafted in the purest watchmaking tradition, with a column wheel mechanism and vertical clutch. In keeping with the TUDOR philosophy of quality, it presents extraordinary robustness and reliability, guaranteed by the array of extreme tests applied to all TUDOR products.
Derived from the chronograph manufacture calibre Breitling 01, with a high-precision regulating organ developed by TUDOR and exclusive finishes, this movement is the result of a lasting collaboration between the two brands, which have chosen to pool their expertise in the design and production of certain mechanical movements.