Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt

Daniel Roth Extra Flat Rose Gold Gilt: The black dial reveals the gold

With the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, Daniel Roth explores an ancient dial-making technique that is rarely used today. The concept is as subtle as it is spectacular: rather than applying the numerals and inscriptions to the dial, they are directly revealed in the precious metal that forms its base.

Crafted from a solid gold plate, the dial thus combines a deep black with markings left visible in the gold. The Roman numerals, the Daniel Roth signature, and the individual serial number appear to emerge from the dial, creating a visual relief that shifts with the light.

This design finds its natural home in Daniel Roth’s signature double-ellipse case, here crafted from 5N rose gold. A particularly warm combination that highlights the contrast between the black of the dial and the gold.

A gilt dial crafted on a solid gold base

The dial is naturally the centerpiece of this Daniel Roth Extra Flat.

Its creation involves a series of masking operations, electroplating processes, and finishing techniques. The black color is gradually achieved while preserving certain parts of the gold base.

The Roman numerals, the signature, and the individual number are therefore neither printed nor applied. They correspond to areas where the gold of the dial remains visible.

This technique, known as gilt, lends a unique depth to the overall design. Depending on the orientation of the watch, the light alters the perception of the black, the gold, and the various reliefs.

Two Hand-Engraved Guilloché Patterns

Daniel Roth enriches this design with two hand-engraved guilloché patterns.

The central section features a linear straight-line or pinstripe motif. Its regular lines structure the black surface and create subtle variations in light.

Surrounding the minute track is a second pattern, this time circular: a sautéed filet guilloché. It forms a transition between the center of the dial and the hour track while accentuating the three-dimensional composition of the whole.

The combination of the two guilloché patterns allows the dial to constantly shift in character. The black may appear very dense from a certain angle, then reveal the texture of the hand-crafted work when light strikes its surface.

The 5N rose gold double-ellipse case

The Extra Plat revisits the silhouette that has been one of Daniel Roth’s most recognizable signatures since the brand’s inception: his famous double-ellipse case.

In this version, the 5N rose gold directly echoes the warm tones of the elements left visible on the dial.

The contrast is deliberately striking: a precious case in warm tones surrounds an almost entirely black dial, while the gold Roman numerals serve as a link between the two.

Yet the overall design retains the understated elegance characteristic of the Extra Plat. Nothing interferes with the readability of the hours and minutes: the watch’s richness is revealed primarily through its details, materials, and finishes.

Caliber DR002: A Movement Designed for the Extra Plat

On the case back is the manufacture caliber DR002, a hand-wound mechanical movement developed for the Extra Plat collection.

Its 143 components are visible through the open case back, revealing an architecture designed to complement the distinctive proportions of the Daniel Roth case.

The level of finish plays an essential role in its creation. The components notably feature recessed angles, numerous bevels, and several traditional haute horlogerie decorations.

Côtes de Genève, circular graining, and side-stretching become apparent as one observes the movement. It takes several days of work to finish a single DR002 caliber.

This approach perfectly aligns with the watch’s philosophy: a mechanical movement that is relatively unobtrusive in its function, limited to the essentials, yet executed without compromise.

Another Interpretation of the Daniel Roth Extra Plat

The Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt does not derive its character from complications. Its appeal lies in the way Daniel Roth combines artistic crafts, traditional dial construction, and a contemporary movement.

The solid gold dial, its black finish, the indicators revealed within the material, and the two hand-guilloché patterns give it a presence quite distinct from other interpretations of the Extra Plat.

With the DR002 caliber and the double-ellipse case in 5N rose gold, Daniel Roth revisits some of the brand’s historic design codes while executing them according to the standards of its new generation of watches.