Laurent's opinion
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner: The art of watchmaking at its peak, hand in hand
Portrait of Laurent Picciotto
Description

THE PEARL OF WATCHMAKING ART

Louis Erard’s latest collaboration represents a new stage in the exploration of contemporary haute horlogerie. This time, the collaboration with watchmaker and jeweler Cédric Johner reaches new heights of craftsmanship, as he personally hand-decorates the oscillating weight of each movement. With an elegant 39-millimeter case available in two captivating variants – blue and mauve – this limited edition consists of two meticulously crafted series of 178 pieces each.

This is how a watch becomes a message. Better still, a symbol. The very image of sharing. Louis Erard has made a habit of opening up the field of vision of contemporary watchmaking, by inviting architects, artists, craftsmen and independent watchmakers. This new collaboration with Geneva-based Cédric Johner is at the crossroads of all these paths.

Cédric Johner practices, in his own words, “intuitive watchmaking”. In other words, he makes his watches without a blueprint. He makes the first component, then the next, which will fit together. And so on, until the finished, decorated watch. Watch after watch, one at a time, on demand, a few units a year. He often starts with existing movements. He loves old mechanisms. He chooses them for the balance of their architecture, for their condition. Then he dismantles, restores, decorates and reassembles them. He then moves on to trimming, which he makes in his workshop, by hand, from raw or barely shaped metal, which he manufactures on conventional machines. No blueprints, no computer assistance.

He works alone. And with his two hands, he can do anything. How does he do it? This is the story of Cédric Johner. An outstanding craftsman, he has lived through all the changes in the industry and practiced every trade. His career began with an apprenticeship as a jeweler with Chopard. He then trained as a watchmaker. But it was practice that taught him everything. He takes advantage of every opportunity and every encounter to learn.

He set up his own business as soon as he finished his apprenticeship. Putting himself at the customer’s service, he creates made-to-measure pieces. Jewelry, bracelets, cases, complete watches. One day, in the 1990s, he took the plunge and made his first watch, for himself. He designed a case that he named Abyss. A unique design. One of its distinctive features is the hexagonal opening of the dial. On this basis, he indulged in all kinds of variations, from three hands to grand complications. He develops his own decorations, using traditional machines like his pearl tapestry made with a perloir, a pure jeweler’s tool.
He was missing one thing: creating a less exclusive piece, not reserved for collectors, but without making concessions and retaining all the signatures of his art.

It was at this point that Manuel Emch, both Artistic Director and CEO of Louis Erard, contacted Cédric Johner. Having already established a mutual understanding and shared values, their meeting was more like a reunion. Their handshake symbolized a bridge between two distinct worlds: that of artistic watches and that of refined, accessible watchmaking. And so the partnership was born. Their shared vision can be summed up in a few words: to create a limited series that exudes the refinement of a bespoke piece, without compromising on quality or craftsmanship.

The awaited unveiling has arrived. Introducing Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner, presented in two exquisite variations: one adorned with a captivating blue dial, the other in a striking mauve hue. Limited to two editions, each comprising 178 meticulously crafted pieces. All the signatures are present. Louis Erard’s, the Excellence case, the spruce crown, the regulator caliber. And the inimitable essence of Cédric Johner, the embodiment of unrivalled expertise. The extreme sophistication of the dial, with its engraved guilloché decoration and concave turned hour and minute counters for contrast and volume. The iconic hexagonal bezel opening adds to its distinctive allure. The automatic movement, meticulously decorated by the expert hand of Cédric Johner with 230 pearls meticulously placed one by one, oscillating weight by oscillating weight, on the premises of his workshop, bears witness to this.

Together, we’re always stronger.

Specifications

Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Mauve ref. 85249AA02.BVA153
Limited edition of 178 pieces
Automatic Regulator movement, Sellita SW266-1 caliber, 11½”’, Ø25.60 mm, height: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels, 28’800 VpH (4Hz), elaborate grade movement, meticulously decorated, special openworked oscillating weight decorated by Cédric Johner, approx. 38 hours power reserve

Case Polished stainless steel, Ø39 mm, width between lugs: 20 mm, between lugs: 45.90 mm, thickness: 12.82 mm, 3 parts, domed hexagonal sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, movement visible through the transparent black caseback, water-resistant to 5 bar (50 m/165 ft), signature fir tree crown

Dial Purple PVD dial base with sunray pattern, hour flange at 12 o’clock and seconds flange at 6 o’clock, anthracite satin-finish circle with polished corners, white transfers
Polished rhodium leaf hands

HMS functions
Hour hand in counter at 12 o’clock, central minute hand, seconds hand in counter at 6 o’clock

Black grained calf leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching, black grained calf leather lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, ergot bars for quick strap change.
Strap dimensions: 20/18 mm wide, 80/115 mm long

Collaboration watch developed in collaboration with Cédric Johner in a limited edition of 178 pieces.

ABOUT CEDRIC JOHNER

Cédric Johner began his career in 1982, at the age of 15, by training as a jeweler with a prestigious Geneva firm. This was the starting point of a career marked by wonder, the careful observation of shapes, the subtle balance and coherence of products, and the discovery of infinite creativity.

He then enriched his career with training in the field of watchmaking. This experience gave him the technical mastery, precision, rigor and patience needed to create pieces of exceptional quality. He also explored the field of development, prototypes and one-off pieces, all the while growing personally. He has launched numerous models that continue to seduce watch lovers.

Today, Cédric Johner practises his traditional skills daily in his Geneva workshop, using entirely traditional tools. Each piece he makes passes through his hands to be carefully designed, shaped, sculpted and decorated. He is the guardian of an age-old craft that few still perpetuate with such passion. Today, he shares his journey with the world through his creations.

His unwavering commitment to craftsmanship and creation testifies to an unshakeable determination to pursue his artistic exploration. Every day, his story shapes the Geneva watch brand.

Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Purple ref. 85249AA02.BVA153
Louis Erard
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Purple ref. 85249AA02.BVA153
5 050 € TTC
Available